First of all, being new here and not knowing this forum well (I'm more of a regular on the machining forum) I apologize in advance if my request does not correspond to the idea of the forum.
My name is Thomas , originally from Thiers in the Puy de Dôme.
I started making aluminum motorcycle master cylinders (part that contains the brake fluid as well as a piston and which allows by a displacement of fluid to the caliper and more precisely to its piston(s) to stick the brake pads on its disc and therefore to brake the wheel). When I say artisanal manufacturing I mean without the use of NC, most of the part is done in a foundry and all the machining part on a conventional machine.
Until now I made my molds out of sand but I would like to switch to steel molds.
That's it for the technical start.
So I have to draw the "part" and then deduce the mold under Solid. The problem is that I'm not a SolidWorks expert. I used the program in high school and I get by with fairly simple parts but I don't master the surface at all. My piece is made up of multiple curves that go a little in all directions and it is beyond my level. Photos of the room are attached.
Do you think I can design the part without going through surface and using only the creation or removal of material functions?
Hello We should be able to do something similar. Doesn't the exterior need a lot of precision? I allow myself the question: Why make your own master cylinders? I'm not far from you. ;-)
No, the exterior does not need great precision. I would say 5/10 of a mm at the level of the outer diameter of the brake fluid reservoir. But no, overall, no clarification needed. To the question of why, there are several reasons. First and foremost for the challenge. I set up a custom motorcycle workshop and I tend to manufacture a maximum of parts as well in sheet metal work as in machining, mechanical, painting etc. It's true that making yourself a master cylinder is a lot of worries but it's a part that involves several trades . First of all, from the foundry which I find the most fascinating. Then the machining and finally the painting. Brake fluid and paint don't mix, I think I'm going to go for a powder coating (very resistant powder coating baked in the oven). There is also the solution of anidization. The other reason is that I simply can't find a master cylinder that I like aesthetically . These are often huge parts that visually weigh down the entire control part. Nissin master cylinders are quite nice and discreet, especially the retro ones, but they are quite expensive. My shape is inspired by one of their models. That's it basically.
For the moment I have managed to make one side of the room. Two extrusions to make the two cylinders. I tried to make the curves to join the two with the fillet tool with variable size (result attached). I put angles a bit randomly hence the problem I think, the slopes don't look super natural. I don't know if I'm making myself understood. Is there a tool to "smooth" the junction a little better?
Your cylinders seem straight to me, be careful of the you have to put a draft on each extrusion you make. Between 3 and 5° depending on the recommendation of your founder. If you have a sketch on the side, we could do some tests.
Indeed, you are right, we need skin. From what I have read about foundry courses, 3° seems correct to me. The foundry being bibi difficult to have valid advice. But once the piece is drawn, I will of course ask for the opinion of someone with more experience than me. It won't be difficult to find ^_^.
I didn't add any draft because the separation of the mold will be done lengthwise of the piece. On the attached photo the red line (dsl for the quality of the drawing). Still on the photo in pj you just have to add draft at the level of the black arrows. But I was thinking of doing that at the end once the part is completely finished. It seems to me that at the level of the draft analysis tools of Solid you can add the desired angle.
For those who are interested, here is a first model that I made in sand casting. See attachment.
The reaming of the tank is carried out at the time of casting by the addition of a sand core. A small diameter rod can be seen that is in the same axis as the cylinder of the tank. It is only used in machining to clamp the workpiece in the mandrel of a lathe to make a thread to receive the brake fluid cap cap. Once this is done, the stem is removed.
Well hello, very nice work, it makes me want to fill out a waiver to go see you:)
Here is a picture of how I proceeded (I have no doubt that I must have complicated my life on some points but hey^^
I extrude the handle part that I "recut" afterwards as I added the option of a different angle I rectified the 2 faces so that they are perpendicular (surface in blue).
Added top and then bottom leaves.
Creation of a 3D sketch to position the tank at with tilt option.
Extend the tube then round the bottom (otherwise it will be visible that we make the tank)
Creation of the reservoir by revolution. (be careful to position the bottom of the tank)
And to finish adding a ton of fillet in all directions with variable radii (the most capricious part, for the time being I put 8 including 0.5 and 0.1 mm for principle)
If you are in my region you are obviously welcome. This is of course also valid for you @Sylk and all those who would be interested, at least in 3 years when we will be able to move freely again^^
I'm sending you the different sides (here the top view) with the different dimensions. There are probably some missing but with all the rounding I don't really know how to rate all that.
