I'm a beginner on Solidworks and I'm modeling a wooden frame for a vintage car, I found that to put under stress you had to be precise 3 digits after the decimal point (mm).
I don't need such precision, can we change the margin of error to, for example, 2 digits after the decimal point or simply to the mm...
it makes me waste a lot of time all this precision...
No need for precision because it does not influence the constraints. The constraints are between two sides.
The clearance is only used in specific cases, for example for a tenon and a slide or for stresses in a slotted hole if a workpiece slides into the slotted hole. But for ordinary constraints, there is no need for precision.
If you think I didn't understand, can you take a screenshot of the case that is bothering you.
SW doesn't like, not to say hate, overstrain. Your front bow will therefore be constrained via a coaxiality on one of the rounds of one of the tenons, a parallelism between 2 flat faces and a constraint between a vertex of the reinforcement and the face of the "right rear" piece. If you are looking to put other conduits, SW will indicate an error due to the fact that your "right rear" piece is bent. Then you should see how you made the mortises in this room.
I believe that we should not make the mistake of over-constraining because it is useless from the point of view of drawing and assembling the sub-assemblies. Simply because you're not in real life or a room can bend slightly if necessary.
In your example you have two mortise tenons that you can assemble with or without play (look at the advanced constraints). In fact, you only need to constrain one mortise tenon with two constraints (one mortise tenon and one to prevent the mortise from coming out of the mortise).
For the top fixing, only one point is needed to fix the right rear piece. As in the top of the "right rear piece" we do not see a fixing piece. All you need is one constraint, either edge to face, i.e. a distance constraint from a part of the roof.
So in your case for the "right rear part" three or four backlash-free constraints are enough to fix your part.
Don't forget when static (type of a vehicle chassis) the games are useless except for the future MEP. When you make a coaxial constraint between a 6 screw and a 7 hole, you have a slack but the coaxial stress does not take it into account since the screw will be perfectly centered (coaxial with the 7 hole). The game is only used by the editor so that he can do his job without too much trouble.
Kind regards
PS: If you post your assembly, we can give you a diagnosis of your constraints and give you some tips if necessary ;-) for your constraints.
yes yes exactly I would just like to fix the mortise in a single point but even that I can't do it! each mortise and hole are parallel to a plane so normally it must be good!! on the second reinforcement after the mudguard and the rest I would just adjust them visually....
I have other small questions in the end I would like to find a person who owns a digital milling machine in order to take out the pieces on the milling machine do you have any addresses someone who could give me a quote with steamed ash?
Are there any conditions to be met in the construction? like just doing material removals or whatever?
Mailing your assembly will be easier to help you because I assume you are not under maintenance and you do not have access to your dealer's "Hot Line".
This will save you time and you may learn things along the way ;-) ;-)
After the same at the back I don't understand why the second reinforcement falls badly when it's the same... and you can see on the right view that the two ends of the back are parallel right on the spot!
Your difficulty comes essentially from the way you use the constraints and I would say inappropriately and especially from the fact that you treat the parts as mechanical when we are not more in the philosophy of a carpenter or a cabinetmaker.
For example, you put a constraint face on which you cause a squareness that prevents you from joining the part to another endoit.
As your parts are badly designed (it's wood in shape, not easy), you need a certain flexibility in the assembly, what you call "A GAME", for this you have to use dot-dot or arrête_point or edge-edge links which will give you the flexibility (the game) that cabinetmakers have in the exercise of their art. that you did for the left back piece with the coincidence between two points.
I am preparing a document that you will have during the day and which proposes a way of proceeding that should allow you to achieve your goals in the spirit of restoration cabinetmaking.