Hello
I am looking for information on the sizing of beam and joist for a mezzanine in my garage.
I would like to know how to size the beams and joists on the one hand and on the other hand the hooking of the planks for fixing to the wall and finally put the supports in the beam without a metal shoe for an aesthetic question
Hello
Wooden structures are generally sized according to Eurocode 5. For wooden elements, attention must be paid to the slenderness (related to the section and length) which is often more restrictive than the bending of the beam alone.
Since you have the dimensions, you then need to choose the permissible load of your floor. In general, for this type of application, it is around 100 to 150 kg/m². This is quite easy to obtain with joists every 50 cm and standard wooden panels.
To fix it to the wall, the load must be taken up by adhesion. If we consider that the coefficient of friction between the wood and the wall is between 0.3 and 0.5, with a surface area of 8 m² and a load of 100 kg/m², you need an effort of about 2000 kg to distribute along the beam. All that remains is to look in the data of the dowels (depending on your type of wall) the size and the number needed.
See this link among others
for the fixing of invisible beams but there are many others
and I'm not a reseller no action ;-))
http://eshop.wurth.fr/-/0681-352-090-etrier-a-queue-d-aronde.sku/fr/FR/EUR/
You can also look at the very well done Boisphile site where you will find lots of explanations
http://boisphile.over-blog.com/
or http://www.maisons-et-bois.com/discussions/index.php
with your posts at this distance you can pass in my opinion everything in 220x45 spaced 400 mm apart with OSB floor of 18 so that the edges fall to the right of the joists
@+ ;-))
See this page among others
http://boisphile.over-blog.com/article-6372996-6.html#comment118676764
@+ ;-))
Hello
I guess your floor will mainly be used to store boxes, heavy elements (water heaters, engines, motorcycles in parts ..) will naturally go along the walls.
Having already made a few floors that have not collapsed, I suggest you:
6.5x18 joists are largely sized for a span of 3m50 (the actual section will be closer to 6x17cm depending on the manufacturer), do not reduce the width by 6.5, this will save you from having to brace the joists (avoid "twisting").
In order to avoid metal hooks to take over the load: nail (screw) and glue rafters on either side at the bottom of the supporting joist (5x20cm); (see attached sketch) ;p it, lard with 2 points each 6.5 x18 on the 5x20.
Wall sides: Fixings recessed in half the thickness of the wall.
The spacing of the joists: 50 cm is enough to support a load of approx. 200kg/m² but you have to put a "thick" floor (21mm) to limit that it "digs" (it will dig anyway...). I prefer to put a 33-40 cm center distance with a 19mm floor (less heavy), so there are more joists to support the loads.
The pole (pay attention to its position for opening the doors): 6.5 x18 (2x) fixed together (with or without spacers) are more than enough for load loading, do not reduce the sections too much because they give a resistant visual appearance to the structure.
Why not remove the post and suspend the floor (the main joist) by several tie rods at the ridge purlin? It has little load to support if the rafters touch each other at the top (with miter cut). And why not, increase the cross-section of the ridge purlin?
Of course other opinions, will be just as valid; So, good luck making up your mind and good realization.
For information, the house is already built. To remove the post, indeed I had thought of putting tie rods but a wood dealer told me that the post would take over all the load so the ridge purlin too.