Hello
I'm moving away from CAD a bit but I need help!
I have a part currently drilled tapped in M5. However, I need drilling-tapping in... M3.
I'm looking for a solution to "transform" this thread but I admit to lkuttering a little. I know the threads but the "Helicoil" thread does not correspond to a classic M5.
If you have a backup solution, I'm all for it.
Thank you and have a good day
Hello
A solution without finesse is to drill to a larger diameter (10mm for example) and to bring back a tightly mounted round threaded to the right diameter!
Hello
Can you take a screenshot of the hole to see the environment of the hole?
Thank you
Yes, of course, Tomalan.
They are, in the image, in M3.
Lucas, is he a sokution indeed:) But if there is something "simpler", it would suit me!
like its I would say an M5 threaded rod in which M3 thread taps (but its likely to end) a drop or two of threadlockers.
You have to see the environment....
An idea (admittedly a bit barbaric !!), you drill at Ø6.5 and you weld an M3 hexagonal nut.
There may be a possibility to redo the 3 holes in M3 with a slight offset compared to those in M5 already done and correct in the same way the part that comes to be mounted on it (or not if the orientation of the part does not matter)?
Thank you, so in any case you have to go back to the "MacGiver" box:)
To understand a little better, it is a portable electro machine binding part. It erelates the tube that serves as a casing for the rotating head. It's a bit vague but to sum up, its main function is to connect 2 elements without high mechanical stress.
@David: the part that fits on it is already made :( and it is oval...
Otherwise you drill at 6 then you reload in solder and you drill M3 again
Modify the part that comes to be mounted on this one to put the M5 screws!
(send a screen print of this part if possible)
Hello
I agree with David on the realization of other M3 threads.
Otherwise, you have the possibility to redrill the part that fits on it to a diameter for M5.
S.B
Hi, I often get this kind of stupidity, so I use inserts, after a little chambering, and crimped with the pliers.
the nut is good but welded an M3 nut it deforms it and the result is not great at all.
Drilled bigger tap an M10 screw and go back to M3 it's great on a flat part... sorry you're in the M.... E @Jose
The inserts I'm talking about are parts used for plastic in general with the expensive lower part
No, but I think that the solution of loading in weld and redrilling can be quite :)
I looked for 2 hours at the inserts on the net and I didn't find what I was looking for. Only M4 threads that are aimed in M6, but not M3!!
See this link
https://quebec.westburne.ca/quincailleries/hoffman/qbik/q-bik-brass-inserts-m5-m3/product/HOFQBIK
@gt, if you find me the same headless, I proclaim you a genius of the net!
so I use this
http://eshop-simaf.com/fr/insert-a-visser/27-insert-a-visser-laiton-m3-x-5-tarinsert-quantite-sachet-100.html
http://www.modele.sklep.pl/pl/Katalog/MATERIALY-DO-BUDOWY-MODELI/78-Akcesoria/Sruby-podkladki-nakretki-nity/Gwintowany-insert-M3-4-szt.html
http://www.directindustry.fr/prod/kerb-konus/inserts-filetes-metal-5001-439163.html
Thank you Gerald! The "KERB KONUS" are perfect :)
I'll be able to fix it all!
You're welcome @ jose, A 10 years of after-sales experience brings a whole bunch of tricks and hacks to go as fast and clean as possible;)
Personally, when we have a problem of this type at work, we fill in weld and then drill again with the right diameter.