Hello
I would like to have a feedback on 3D printing when you impimate a "solid" part with a cylinder of 100mm in diameter, when you convert to stl the printer will by itself minimize the material inside or print only the outer surface, or make it full?
Hello @Gerald,
You should know what material and process you want to use (stereolithography, ABS wire, ...)
I'm just going to give my personal experience: I've often had parts made by stereolithography, and my subcontractor made them for me in shell (powder inside not "fused", while my files showed a solid part. Subsequently, at my request, he made them full for me, and completely "fused" for mechanical maintenance needs.
I think that all this will have to be seen with the subcontractor you choose.
Hi @ Gerald
In my humble opinion
The printer log must in the case of an STL (which for me is a surface log)
conciderer that the volume is full so
Fill the volume between the scanned surfaces
but I can say nonsense in this case an info will be very useful to me
The STL file format is a format used in stereolithography software . This format was developed by the company 3D Systems. This file format is used by many other companies. It is widely used for rapid prototyping and computer-aided manufacturing. The STL file format only describes the surface geometry of an object in 3 dimensions. In particular, this format does not include information about the color, texture, or other usual parameters of a computer-aided design model.
http://www.priximprimante3d.com/modeliser/
@+ ;-)
The printer will print what you send it! So a full room will make a full room!
You have the option to print in honeycomb (weight and material saving)
With the little experience I have, it's not good to print big solid weights, it quickly creates gaps on the desired dimensions.
All these settings are made on the printer's log (honeycomb, change of density in places...)
I plan to buy an ultimaker 2 3D printer
and I wonder about the processes
Hello
It all depends on what you want and what you ask for.
Some suppliers optimize the process by hollowing out the inside in order to recover powder and lower the price.
However, of course, you need an evacuation hole.
If you don't want any unpleasant surprises, indicate that you want a full volume when requesting a quote.
To know though, the fact of making a full room will of course be more expensive.
Try to send your part to Sculpted in order to get a live price, their quotation system made of a solid part in design will remain full in printing UNLESS they add evacuation holes (they have a module for).
For the others, specify what you want.
Good luck
I just saw your last message:)
Be careful when buying, you have to be sure of what you want.
Ultimaker = ABS wire and, having tested many times, this means very low mechanical resistance...
I think (but it's still a personal opinion) that a sintered or stereo part is much more accomplished than an ABS wire part.
It all depends on what you want to do next, if it's for "decorative" objects or to check dimensions and assemblies, it should be fine (look at the thicknesses of the wires deposited, the smaller it is, the better it is in terms of precision) but if it's to make functional prototypes with real mechanical resistance, you might as well outsource sintering.
A+
For an FDM printer there is no need for evacuation holes because it is wire deposit.
As much for me, I was going for a subcontracting in sintering / stereo and not in wire deposit.
If this is the case, it is obvious that yes, in yarn storage, you can do what you want...
@Jose
I asked for several protoype on different machine and the quality-precision-solidity ratio goes to the ultimaker2
It is for making parts without great mechanical stress. Sleeves, brackets etc... No rooms where you live something.
I had a part made for vacuum cleaner, and there is only the one received by ultimaker that resisted (and still resists my wife that's to say)
The printer accepts different types of materials, abs, pla, wood, soft pla
I will add that in terms of precision there is indeed the pegasus project in SLA but not yet released, cheaper and smaller...
It's not the size that counts but still a little
Good evening @Gerald,
The amount of material is adjusted when you start the program that calculates the points
On mine for example it shows me a message asking me if I want to keep the default configs
which uses about 70% of material even less I think, I'm not at home anymore but I can show
at worst tonight in pictures...
So if you want it to be 100% full, you have to set it before it calculates the 3D printer's NC program
I'll put a link tonight after my work so you can see what I'm talking about ;)
Have a nice day
Hello
I use a 2X replicator, and you can choose your level of "fill" depending on what you want to do, if it's just a part for aesthetics, or if it's a more functional part...
Cdt
Eric
@centor Thank you
@frepo what is a replicator worth 2x in quality? I don't have to press order from ultimaker lol Even if I'm really motivated, because the piece they sent me is really well made. (sent as is, undeburred, unpolished)
What worries me with my approach is that the companies know perfectly well the settings to produce good quality, and I'm afraid of finding myself in a configuration where I'll nitpick before doing something clean
@Gerald
I can't answer for the replicator, but for my part I bought mine at pearl these FreeSculpt 3D-Drucker
I'll pass you the links for the 3 versions maybe it will interest you
http://www.pearl.ch/ch-a-PV8600-1122.shtml?query=print+3d (printer version)
http://www.pearl.ch/ch-a-PV8610-1122.shtml?query=print+3d (Printer version and scanning software)
http://www.pearl.ch/ch-a-PV8610-1122.shtml?query=print+3d (printer version and Scanning Software + 3D software)
A yes be careful not to make the same mistake as me, because I bought the first one, and I thought I would buy the scan software afterwards, but only those that the company provides the software only with the printer and not separately :x
So 1 version without software except the one for the printer:)
2nd version with the Trimodo program (I don't know how accurate it is so can't tell you more)
3rd version with the program trimodo + TriScatch 3D (which I don't know they changed the 3D software before it's turbocad)
For the rest of the information I'll pass you tonight:)
In any case, the printer is doing very well:)
@ Gerald
there is this site for 3D printing where there is no info and test
http://www.lesimprimantes3d.fr/forum/search.php?keywords=format+impression&sid=4d3bf63cb9260d516bf9f8ce45bed22a
@+ ;-)
@gt22
It confirms my choice in terms of characteristic size and precision and type of materials.
There is indeed zotrax but only 2 types of material possible
@Gerald: In the "3D printer" group you posted a link on a printer comparison site, so I think you based your choice on that.
So it's no longer up for discussion...
I'm reframing because in my opinion we're getting away from the subject (see question)
Even with all the advice in the world you'll have to fumble at the start, you're not going to come out with the perfect piece the first time.
But you should know that there are quite a few setting options on the software linked to your printer.
@tomalan, the problem with groups is that you have the impression (3D lol) that no one goes there
I'm not the type to settle for a single site, because there are often biases.
The GT22 one is a little more technically accurate, and if I hadn't asked the question I wouldn't have known about it.
@Gerald
Here I have screened you where you have in the program the configuration for the quantity of material.
I was able to see 2 versions of a program for 3D printer, and I was able to see that these are almost identical
of the 2