Hello everyone,
I thought of an idea for a belt tensioner that uses a square nut (which allows you to have the tensioning system in one and the same plate)
See attached image.
I'm waiting for your opinions on this idea, if anyone has already seen this ect ect! Feel free to say your thoughts!
See you soon
Your solution is valid if your square nut is drilled, otherwise by screwing you won't know if it's the nut that is blocking the screw. The light may be too large for the size of the screw head.
And finally, your tensioning system must be as close as possible to your belt to avoid pushing sideways.
Attached is a tensioner that I made:
Hello
Could you post a wider view? You can't see where the belt is.
Hello
I admit that at first glance I'm not sure I can locate all the elements (where is the belt?) but it seems a bit complicated to me.
The oblongs do not seem to respect the minimum distances from the edges of the plate.
On the other hand, the pressure screw is not in the axis of the assembly. As a result, it will grow crooked and may get stuck. Or you have to put a second one symmetrical but you would have to adjust the 2 sets.
> Yes, the screw is too short
> A hole in the square nut, why do it?
> There are 2 screws to be able to tension the crown in a "straight" way
> Sorry but I can't show my system
> Oblong plate edges: The plate can straddle the vacuum and the plywood, it doesn't bother
> There are 2 screws (the second one is not shown)
> Yes, it's precisely the symmetrical screw
Thank you for your advice!
OK Batch,
From what you can see, I imagine that the pulley is at the end of the tube facing upwards, and that the belt is horizontal, to the right.
As a result, it's not so much the assembly that may not work as the principle of tensioning in this way, in offset : when you loosen your 4 M12 screws, you will already start to relax your belt and you will have to adjust the tension blindly with multiple tests.
When I say that oblongs seem too close to the edge, it is because normally a thickness of material equal to the diameter of the hole is left at least between the edge of the hole and the edge of the plate. This ensures that the material remaining at the edge does not depart under shear stresses. Visually, that doesn't seem to be the case here.
Otherwise, the problem with the square nut with the tapped plate is that it may make a lock nut when tightening and block the screw before the head actually tightens the plate. So you need a square insert with a smooth hole, not a tap, to avoid the problem